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2023 Sancerre
Domaine Roger Neveu
Sancerre undoubtedly represents one of the world’s best areas for growing Sauvignon Blanc, but even here, site plays paramount importance. The sleepy town, just west of the Loire River, is surrounded by gently rolling hills, with tidy vineyard rows covering every conceivable surface save the occasional hilltop village.
However, not all vineyards are created equal: differences in exposure, slope, and altitude—along with minor variations in soil type—give drastically distinct wines from one plot to the next. The Neveu family is fortunate to own land in the Clos des Bouffants, an unusually steep parcel with a very poor, thin soil composed of rocky limestone. Facing due south, the Sauvignon here receives generous sunshine to produce an ample, concentrated wine.
True to its terroir, it possesses striking nerve and minerality that underscore the mouthfilling citrus flavors. This is serious Sancerre made by a family whose roots in the region date back to the twelfth century.
For an exquisite pairing, try Chris Lee’s recipe for Dungeness crab with linguine.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
Appellation: | Sancerre |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Domaine Roger Neveu |
Winemaker: | Éric & Jean-Philippe Neveu |
Vineyard: | 20 years average, 18 ha |
Soil: | Limestone |
Aging: | Wine aged for 3 months before first racking, aged for 8 to 12 months in total |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13% |
More from this Producer or Region

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2020 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
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Sourced from the village of Beaumont, located within the Chinon AOC, it is utterly delicious, with a perfect balance of fruit and earth.

2022 Saumur Champigny “La Foulée”
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2022 Sancerre Rouge
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Pure, classy fruit sing tenor without any interference from the earthy bass that often makes itself heard in Bourgogne rouge.

2018 Saumur Blanc “L’Échelier”
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This chiseled Chenin Blanc comes from 70-year-old vines planted on an ancient limestone slope. Burgundian-like in character from its time spent in barrel, the laser-like acidity will become even more enticing with some age.

2022 Sancerre Blanc “Pierre François Xavier Vieilles Vignes”
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The oak adds a grain and level of class and backbone that raises this cuvée a step above the domaine’s classic Sancerre bottling.

2021 Bourgueil “La Dilettante”
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A delicate, aromatic red in the “drink now!” vein.

About The Producer
Domaine Roger Neveu
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
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2023 Chinon Rosé
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2023 Saumur Mousseux “Bulles de Roche”
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2020 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
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2022 Bourgueil Clairet “Avis de Vin Fort”
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Vouvray Brut
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2023 Muscadet “Le Clos de la Butte”
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2016 Chinon “Les Petites Roches” MAGNUM
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2020 Saumur Champigny “Clos de l’Échelier”
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2023 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
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2023 Chinon Rosé
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2023 Saumur Mousseux “Bulles de Roche”
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2020 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
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2022 Bourgueil Clairet “Avis de Vin Fort”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
Vouvray Brut
Champalou France | Loire
2023 Muscadet “Le Clos de la Butte”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2020 Saumur Champigny “La Marginale”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
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Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
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