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2023 Lumassina Frizzante

Punta Crena
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This is the wine typically served to accompany antipasti as guests gather at Punta Crena, a winery overlooking the Mediterranean on the northern Italian coast. Small platters of marinated anchovies, salt-cured anchovies topped with butter (I kid you not), frittata of local herbs, oily focaccia, and cured olives from the family’s very own thousand-year-old Taggiasca trees make their way around the table—you shoulda been there—as this frizzante charmer from the indigenous Lumassina grape flows freely. Few things are quite as uplifting as this ethereal, floral, lemony quaffer.

Anthony Lynch

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Technical Information
Wine Type: sparkling
Vintage: 2023
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Lumassina
Appellation: Colline Savonesi
Country: Italy
Region: Liguria
Producer: Punta Crena
Winemaker: Tommaso Ruffino & Family
Vineyard: 11 - 21 years, 1 ha
Soil: Silt
Aging: Wines spend two months on the lees
Farming: Traditional
Alcohol: 11%

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About The Region

Liguria

map of Liguria

A long, crescent-shaped sliver of mountainous coastline ranging from the French border in the west to that of Tuscany in the east, Liguria is a region of unrivaled Mediterranean charm. This applies not only to its colorful seaside villages and carefree, welcoming people, but also to the wines it produces—crisp whites and light reds designed to be quaffed with locally caught seafood.

Viticulture has thrived along these coastal hillsides since Etruscan times. Ancient stone terraces line the steep slopes all along the Riviera, many abandoned while others still host olive trees, lemon trees, and of course, the vine. What Liguria lacks in acreage, it makes up for in diversity and originality: home to numerous indigenous grape varieties, it produces wines of infectious local character.

The hallmarks of Ligurian wines are fragrant aromatics and lively freshness. Whites from grapes like Vermentino and Pigato capture the pervasive flavors of wild herbs and citrus with a sea-breeze salinity, while the rare reds from Rossese, among others, have a brightness of flavor that allows them to complement dishes from the sea or land—served with a slight chill, of course.

While Kermit’s history in the region is relatively recent, Liguria has rapidly become one of his favorite places to visit. It’s hard to blame him—enjoying a crisp, perfumed white with a platter of fried sea critters on the Mediterranean is definitely not the worst part of the job.

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

Read the whole story

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