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Ambassadors of Cheer

Ambassadors of Cheer

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2023 Bourgueil “Trinch!”

2023 Bourgueil “Trinch!”

Catherine & Pierre Breton   

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Catherine & Pierre Breton    France   |  Loire   |  Bourgeuil

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It’s rare for anyone (much less vignerons, who work long days) to be pillars of the community, unofficial appellation ambassadors, bons vivants, cultural icons, and produce village-defining wines all at once. But then again, Catherine and Pierre Breton—along with their daughter France and son Paul—are highly unusual, genuine heroes of French wine, with a seemingly inexhaustible spirit and joie de vivre that courses through all of their endeavors.
     Named for a German expression meaning “cheers,” championed by the poet and philosopher Rabelais, their Trinch! cuvée embodies this energy. One of their most lithe and quaffable rouges, it is a joyous and pure expression of Bourgueil Cabernet Franc, full of leafy, brambly, and graceful charm. Vinified in stainless steel tanks, using a cold maceration, and bottled in the spring after harvest, this bottling is all about accessible fruit, soft tannins, and low alcohol. Open it at apéro hour, or serve it alongside a lentil and potato salad for a light and uplifting winter meal.

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About The Region

Loire

map of Loire

The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?

Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.

Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.

Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

Read the whole story

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