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Ambassadors of Cheer
Ambassadors of Cheer
by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf
2023 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
2023 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
Dinner with the Breton family
The Bretons
France Breton amidst the Trinch vines
Paul Breton
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgeuil
It’s rare for anyone (much less vignerons, who work long days) to be pillars of the community, unofficial appellation ambassadors, bons vivants, cultural icons, and produce village-defining wines all at once. But then again, Catherine and Pierre Breton—along with their daughter France and son Paul—are highly unusual, genuine heroes of French wine, with a seemingly inexhaustible spirit and joie de vivre that courses through all of their endeavors.
Named for a German expression meaning “cheers,” championed by the poet and philosopher Rabelais, their Trinch! cuvée embodies this energy. One of their most lithe and quaffable rouges, it is a joyous and pure expression of Bourgueil Cabernet Franc, full of leafy, brambly, and graceful charm. Vinified in stainless steel tanks, using a cold maceration, and bottled in the spring after harvest, this bottling is all about accessible fruit, soft tannins, and low alcohol. Open it at apéro hour, or serve it alongside a lentil and potato salad for a light and uplifting winter meal.
Dinner with the Breton family
The Bretons
France Breton amidst the Trinch vines
Paul Breton
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
Appellation: | Bourgeuil |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Catherine & Pierre Breton |
Winemaker: | Catherine & Pierre Breton |
Vineyard: | 30 years, 5 ha |
Soil: | Gravel |
Aging: | Vinified in stainless steel with a cold maceration |
Farming: | Biodynamic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2019 Vouvray “Bois Guyon”
France | Loire
For this Vouvray, Paul has opted for a demi-sec style utterly unique in its combination of honeyed richness and flinty verve. This bottling is hard to resist on its own, but you might also try serving it with a simple cheese platter.
2023 Vouvray “La Dilettante”
France | Loire
Delicate, precise, and succulent at the same time, this beautiful blanc will pair well with fresh seafood and light summer salads and pastas.
Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
France | Loire
Dry Champagne-method sparkler that delivers tremendous value.
2021 Bourgueil “Clos Sénéchal”
France | Loire
This divine red allies the power and finesse one would expect from this great terroir.
2021 Bourgueil “La Dilettante”
France | Loire
A delicate, aromatic red in the “drink now!” vein.
2020 Bourgueil “Nuits d’Ivresse”
France | Loire
Bottled without any sulfur whatsoever, here is a seriously playful Cab Franc from the masters of vinous fun.
2023 Vin de France Brut Nature “Elle est pas bulle, la vie?”
France | Loire
Delicious and honest naturally sparkling Chenin, bottled with no dosage and no sulfur.
2022 Bourgueil Rosé “La Ritournelle”
France | Loire
Brisk red-fruited twang, some herbaceous zest, and an absolutely mouthwatering zingy finish.
2022 Chinon “Beaux Monts”
France | Loire
Sourced from the village of Beaumont, located within the Chinon AOC, it is utterly delicious, with a perfect balance of fruit and earth.
2022 Bourgueil “Franc de Pied”
France | Loire
Serve it with a slight chill, and you’ll have a satisfyingly fresh red with medium fruit and a light dusting of herbs and tannin.
About The Producer
Catherine & Pierre Breton
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2021 Sancerre “Les Coutones”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2023 Bourgueil Rosé
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
Touraine “Fines Bulles”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2023 Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc “Unique”
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2023 Reuilly “Les Pierres Plates”
Domaine de Reuilly France | Loire
2020 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2022 Chardonnay
Éric Chevalier France | Loire
2022 Chinon “Beaux Monts”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2022 Jasnières “Cuvée Sainte Narcisse”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2022 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2021 Chinon Blanc “Les Charmes”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2021 Sancerre “Les Coutones”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2023 Bourgueil Rosé
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
Touraine “Fines Bulles”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2023 Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc “Unique”
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2023 Reuilly “Les Pierres Plates”
Domaine de Reuilly France | Loire
2020 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2022 Chardonnay
Éric Chevalier France | Loire
2022 Chinon “Beaux Monts”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2022 Jasnières “Cuvée Sainte Narcisse”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2022 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2021 Chinon Blanc “Les Charmes”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch