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2023 Pays d’Oc Cabernet Sauvignon “Les Traverses”
Château Fontanès
This delicious country red might be the unlikeliest success story of southern France. Two decades ago, Cyriaque Rozier, vigneron of Château La Roque in Pic Saint Loup, was so inspired by a nearby plot of Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted in 1970 that he purchased it and, as a side project, started making wine under his own label. He wasn’t interested in fashioning some grand expression of the grape in the vein of Bordeaux, but rather a pure and joyous rouge that would exist happily on any table.
I can’t think of anywhere else I’ve tasted this unique combination of grape, terroir, and farming: Cabernet’s classic notes of plum and currant bear a trace of southern French garrigue, and it’s all carried on a fresh and graceful frame, thanks to Cyriaque’s biodynamic farming and vinification in stainless steel cuves to retain as much freshness and purity of fruit as possible. This beautiful rouge is at once savory, soulful, and elegant, representing as perfect a candidate for your summer cooler or ice bucket as your favorite juicy reds from the Beaujolais or Loire.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Cabernet Sauvignon |
Appellation: | Vin de Pays d’Oc |
Country: | France |
Region: | Languedoc-Roussillon |
Producer: | Château Fontanès |
Winemaker: | Cyriaque Rozier |
Vineyard: | Planted in 1970, 5 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone, Marl |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 14.2% |
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February Club Gourmand ~ If you can’t make it to the south of France this year, here’s a way to bring the Mediterranean sun to you.
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About The Producer
Château Fontanès
About The Region
Languedoc-Roussillon
Ask wine drinkers around the world, and the word “Languedoc” is sure to elicit mixed reactions. On the one hand, the region is still strongly tied to its past as a producer of cheap, insipid bulk wine in the eyes of many consumers. On the other hand, it is the source of countless great values providing affordable everyday pleasure, with an increasing number of higher-end wines capable of rivaling the best from other parts of France.
While there’s no denying the Languedoc’s checkered history, the last two decades have seen a noticeable shift to fine wine, with an emphasis on terroir. Ambitious growers have sought out vineyard sites with poor, well draining soils in hilly zones, curbed back on irrigation and the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, and looked to balance traditional production methods with technological advancements to craft wines with elegance, balance, and a clear sense of place. Today, the overall quality and variety of wines being made in the Languedoc is as high as ever.
Shaped like a crescent hugging the Mediterranean coast, the region boasts an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates depending on elevation, exposition, and relative distance from the coastline and the cooler foothills farther inland. While the warm Mediterranean climate is conducive to the production of reds, there are world-class whites and rosés to be found as well, along with stunning dessert wines revered by connoisseurs for centuries.
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Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.