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2022 Salina Malvasia “Verticale”

Vignedimare
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The Aeolian Islands, just off the northeast coast of Sicily, are a Mediterranean paradise of turquoise seas, pristine blue skies, and jet-black lava rock from which grow cacti, caper bushes, and lush wildflowers. Based on the island of Salina, Nino Caravaglio has taken the local Malvasia grape, long prized for the sweet Malvasia delle Lipari it produces, and created dry, single-vineyard bottlings that translate the area’s bright sun, salty sea, and fragrant vegetation with brilliant clarity.
     Nino’s pioneering spirit took him across the water to Stromboli (population: 500), the only active volcano in the archipelago and just a short ride from Salina on the aliscafo (hydrofoil boat). In 2016, he planted Stromboli’s only vineyard, less than a hectare of Malvasia rooted in sandy decomposed lava rock. The first harvest from these vines, the 2022 Verticale was aged in a 500-liter barrel for 18 months to yield a luscious, racy, salt-inflected nectar that reflects these volcanic islands in all their sheer beauty. To best appreciate this perfumey, bone-dry white, serve it with fresh seafood and other Mediterranean produce such as capers, olives, and wild fennel.

Anthony Lynch

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2022
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Malvasia di Lipari
Appellation: IGP Salina
Country: Italy
Region: Sicily
Producer: Vignedimare
Winemaker: Antonino Caravaglio
Vineyard: Planted in 2016; .7 ha
Soil: Volcanic sand
Aging: Aged 18 months in a 500-liter barrel
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 12.5%

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About The Region

Sicily

map of Sicily

Italy’s southernmost region and the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily has no shortage of sunshine to grow high-quality grapes on a yearly basis. It also does not lack a history of winemaking: since the Greeks settled here almost three millennia ago, the vine has played a major role in the island’s agricultural makeup. Production of cheap bulk wine for blending dominated much of its recent history until now, as we are witnessing a quality revolution that puts forth its great diversity and quality of terroirs, indigenous grape varieties, and local production methods.

While Sicily’s historical reputation is for sweet wines—Marsala and the Muscats of Pantelleria stand out—a number of dry whites and reds are enjoying the spotlight today. The cooler, high-altitude slopes of Etna, with its ashy volcanic soils, have seen an explosion of activity from producers both local and foreign; both whites (primarily from Carricante) and reds (Nerello Mascalese) here are capable of uncommon freshness and finesse. Other noteworthy wine regions are Eloro, where Nero d’Avola gives its best; Noto, an oasis of dry and sweet Moscatos; Vittoria, with its supple, perfumed Frappatos; and Salina, where Malvasia makes thirst-quenching dry whites and deliciously succulent passiti.

Countless foreign invasions over the centuries have given Sicilian architecture and cuisine a unique exotic twist, making it a fascinating destination for gourmands as well as wine importers. With a wealth of dedicated artisans proud to show off the riches of their land, you can bet there are many exciting things still to come from this incredible island.

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Terroirs

Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.

Inspiring Thirst, page 312

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