The myth of “rosé season” has led to throngs of thirsty consumers lining up to buy anything pink sold in a wine bottle as early as April, as well as scores of sad retailers weeping over stagnating case stacks come October. So, as a frustrated wine salesman, I have honorably dedicated fifteen minutes of my life to this here electronic proclamation that not all rosés should be limited to a six-month lifespan.
     Take Bandol rosé, for instance: it features a generous portion of Mourvèdre, a grape so sturdy that local merchants in a bygone era were known to load up casks of the wine into the hull of their nautical vessels simply to take it for a spin, hoping the journey would soften its rough edges and render the stuff more drinkable. Sure, times have changed, but it goes to show that a few months’ time in bottle will certainly not be the downfall of wines starring this noble variety.
     In fact, the rosé from Domaine de la Tour du Bon has just hit its stride. Aromas of peach, grapefruit, and thyme—reticent just a few months ago—are now blossoming, while it has become utterly delicate and silky on the palate. It has entered its peak drinking window, which will last through next summer, if past vintages are any indicator.
     Uncork a bottle with chicories or other winter greens (bonus points for garlicky anchovy dressing, as they would do in Provence) to create irresistible seasonal synergy. You’ll certainly agree that this Bandol’s exceptional ability to pair with anything set down on the table is yet another reason why “rosé season” is simply treason.