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2022 Südtirol Eisacktaler Grüner Veltliner

Manni Nössing
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Less than an hour from the Italy-Austria border, amid a terrain you might mistake for the setting of The Sound of Music, Manni Nössing cultivates a few hectares of grapes that have historical importance in both countries. While he dabbled in red varieties a few decades ago, Manni ultimately realized that this particular sliver of Alto Adige—a high-elevation valley called Eisacktaler in German and Valle Isarco in Italian—is ideal for white wine. His south-facing vineyards receive an abundance of sun, but Manni combines the mountains’ cooler temperatures and frequent winds with shade-bolstering practices in the vines to offset the solar impact as much as possible.
      “My grapes are happy in the shade,” he says. “They are unhappy sitting in the sun all day.” In the cellar, Manni passes his Grüner Veltliner through both stainless steel vats and acacia barrels, the latter of which imparts a little more texture and body to a bianco that is otherwise as chiseled as the Dolomite peaks in the distance. Evoking Meyer lemon, pear, and jasmine, this northern Italian white is a match made in heaven for raw oysters, a grilled, lemony cod, sushi, or shrimp tacos.

Tom Wolf

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2022
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Grüner Veltliner
Appellation: Alto Adige – Valle Isarco
Country: Italy
Region: Alto Adige
Producer: Manni Nössing
Vineyard: 2-15 years, 1.2 ha
Soil: Sandy, Granite
Aging: Temperature-controlled fermentation 50% in stainless steel vats, 50% in 30-hL, 5-year-old acacia botti lasts about 10-12 days
Farming: Sustainable
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About The Region

Alto Adige

map of Alto Adige

In the heart of the Dolomites, Alto Adige is Italy’s northernmost wine region. Having changed hands multiples times in its history between Italy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire (it shares a border with Austria), it boasts strong Germanic influence on its culture, language, cuisine, as well as its wines.

The mountainous geography is the principal determinant of local winemaking styles, with the high-altitude vineyards and cool Alpine climate favoring primarily crisp, racy, aromatic whites from varieties like Kerner, Sauvignon, Müller Thurgau, and Grüner Veltliner. A Mediterranean influence on climate is channeled north up the valley until Bolzano, permitting the cultivation of certain reds as well, among which Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Nero, and Merlot fare best.

Small growers who once sold fruit to the area’s multiple co-ops are now increasingly bottling their own wines. The arrival of many quality-oriented artisans on the scene caught our eye years ago, and we now count three estates from Südtirol, as it is also known, in our portfolio. These high-acid mountain wines make for a beautifully invigorating aperitivo with thinly sliced speck, a local specialty.

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Kermit inspecting wine barrels

For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.

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