A Fresh Take on Chablis
A Fresh Take on Chablis
by Jane Augustine by Jane Augustine
Savary’s Bourgogne-Epineuil Rouge Savary’s Bourgogne-Epineuil Rouge
2021 Bourgogne Epineuil
2021 Bourgogne Epineuil
Domaine Savary France | Burgundy | Bourgogne Epineuil
Until the late 1970s, in the northern Burgundy commune of Epineuil, few vineyards remained in production. A satellite appellation of Chablis, Epineuil was all but forgotten in the shadow of its illustrious neighbor until a few devoted vignerons planted some Pinot Noir and resurrected it from near extinction. As it often goes in regions better known for white wines, a great red can be hard to find. There are many reasons this can be: Land is valuable, and the local red wines don’t qualify for the fancier appellation classification that a white might carry. Due to climate conditions, red grapes might have trouble ripening and only growers with sunnier parcels are capable of delivering worthwhile rouges. In some areas, such as Sancerre, phylloxera wiped out entire swaths of red grape production and vineyards were replanted to white grapes. Whatever the reason for a red wine’s scarcity, Savary’s Bourgogne-Epineuil makes the case that the elusive rouge among blancs is worth seeking out, and is often a great value to boot.
Made from Pinot Noir and grown in Kimmeridgian limestone, Savary’s Epineuil is Chablis rouge if one were to exist. It benefits from the same cool climate and fossil-laden soil as Chablis, giving us a red Burgundy with a pronounced mineral identity and a lacy, delicate frame. In contrast with its more structured neighbors to the south in the Côtes de Nuits, Epineuil is juicy and bright, with wisps of peppery, herbal notes. For a light lunch with friends, I opened this bottle alongside a platter of sharp and tangy goat cheese and earthy Saint-Nectaire, some thinly sliced prosciutto, and bowls of white beans with tart sorrel. The 2021 vintage is disarmingly floral, too, blossoming with rose petal and a puckery acidity that’s both refreshing and invigorating. It strikes me as the perfect spring red for an array of tasty snacks and al fresco dining.
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2021 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Pinot Noir |
Appellation: | Bourgogne Epineuil |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Domaine Savary |
Winemaker: | Olivier Savary |
Vineyard: | 25 years, .8 ha |
Soil: | Kimmeridgian limestone |
Aging: | Grapes are entirely de-stemmed, wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks |
Farming: | Traditional |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |