2020 Gard Rouge “Célas”Ludovic Engelvin
France | Languedoc-Roussillon
$39
Producers
Kermit reminded me that the village of Chavignol, known for its fine, firm-textured cheese, the Crottin de Chavignol, is in the heart of the Sancerre appellation. While this recipe does not utilize Crottin (a cheese not particularly suitable for melting), the association of goat cheese with this wine in the local tradition spurred me to come up with this dish.
Finding the right food pairing summons the aromas in the wine. Likewise, the wine can act as a condiment to the food, enhancing its flavors and providing a provocation to continue eating. In this case, the chalky pucker of the goat cheese draws out the flintiness in this wine and harmonizes well with its pungent grassiness. The soft, somewhat creamy effect of the omelette is also a good foil for the refreshing acidity in the wine (taken on its own it can appear “hard”), which washes it all away and further stimulates the appetite. —Paul Bertolli, 1995 Newsletter
Click here for Paul Bertolli’s GOAT CHEESE OMELETTE recipe.
Does it get more classic than this? Like Chablis and Muscadet, Sancerre is a quintessential white wine appellation of France, beloved for its famous Kimmeridgian limestone and crisp blancs that sing at apéro hour. This AOC also happens to be home to half a dozen vignerons named Reverdy. Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy, a family farm that has been making wine for many generations—since the 1600s—is our favorite, producing Sancerres with trademark notes of fresh spring flowers and a zesty, mineral finish.
Since Kermit began to work with Hippolyte, the first Reverdy in this family to bottle, in the 1980s, the wines have been consistently excellent. The current generation, Julie Guiard—Hippolyte’s granddaughter—is as much a humble farmer as any of her ancestors, foregoing vacation and travel to make sure everything is in exactly the right place in her vines and cellar. Join me in opening a bottle of this charming Sancerre that represents what we love most about tradition in French winemaking. —Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2021 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
Appellation: | Sancerre |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy |
Winemaker: | Julie Guiard |
Vineyard: | 30 years average, 11 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Kimmeridgian Limestone |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13.0% |
Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire | Sancerre
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet
Charles Joguet France | Loire | Chinon
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Vouvray
Charles Joguet France | Loire | Chinon
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Chinon
Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire | Sancerre
Daniel Chotard France | Loire | Sancerre
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Daniel Chotard France | Loire | Sancerre
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire | Bourgueil
Charles Joguet France | Loire | Chinon
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch
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