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2020 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”

Grange Saint Sauveur
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If you’ve had a wine from Clos Canarelli, then you are already familiar with the work of Antoine Pouponneau, a key player for years at southern Corsica’s all-star domaine. Recently, Antoine and his wife, Alice, founded their very own domaine in their native Anjou based on the same biodynamic, low-intervention principles that led Antoine to success at Canarelli. The difference is that here they farm old-vine Grolleau and Cabernet Franc on a sunny, fossil-laden slope overlooking the Loire’s placid waters. This terroir, where Alice used to play as a girl, produces a dense, dark, and chiseled red that stands apart from lighter, funkier expressions of Grolleau. The rich blackberry fruit and chewy tannin will match nicely with wild mushrooms, earthy braises, and game birds.

Anthony Lynch

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Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Grolleau Noir, Cabernet Franc
Appellation: Vin de France
Country: France
Region: Loire
Producer: Grange Saint-Sauveur
Winemaker: Alice Gitton-Pouponneau and Antoine Pouponneau
Vineyard: Planted in early 1980s, .65 ha
Soil: Clay, limestone
Aging: Élevage for 18 months in 1-3 year old demi-muids (400-600 liter) before ageing 12 months in bottle
Farming: Biodynamic (practicing)
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Loire

map of Loire

The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?

Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.

Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.

Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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