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Transcendent Alpine Sauvignon Blanc

Transcendent Alpine Sauvignon Blanc

by Anthony Lynch by Anthony Lynch

2019 Alto Adige Sauvignon “Voglar”

2019 Alto Adige Sauvignon “Voglar”

Peter Dipoli   

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Peter Dipoli    Italy   |  Alto Adige   |  Alto Adige

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The Alto Adige wine region is set in a wide north–south valley that channels warm air currents up into the Dolomites, creating a melting pot of Mediterranean and Alpine climates without equal in the world of wine. Peter Dipoli chose a site high on the western flank of this valley to plant Sauvignon Blanc, which he further distinguishes from the masses by aging it in big casks made of acacia wood. The uncommon location and treatment capture a different face of this very familiar variety, deep and mouth-filling yet carrying a bracing jolt of limey acidity. An excellent candidate for further cellaring, it pairs perfectly with Chez Panisse’s salad of shaved fennel and seasonal citrus.

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About The Region

Alto Adige

map of Alto Adige

In the heart of the Dolomites, Alto Adige is Italy’s northernmost wine region. Having changed hands multiples times in its history between Italy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire (it shares a border with Austria), it boasts strong Germanic influence on its culture, language, cuisine, as well as its wines.

The mountainous geography is the principal determinant of local winemaking styles, with the high-altitude vineyards and cool Alpine climate favoring primarily crisp, racy, aromatic whites from varieties like Kerner, Sauvignon, Müller Thurgau, and Grüner Veltliner. A Mediterranean influence on climate is channeled north up the valley until Bolzano, permitting the cultivation of certain reds as well, among which Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Nero, and Merlot fare best.

Small growers who once sold fruit to the area’s multiple co-ops are now increasingly bottling their own wines. The arrival of many quality-oriented artisans on the scene caught our eye years ago, and we now count three estates from Südtirol, as it is also known, in our portfolio. These high-acid mountain wines make for a beautifully invigorating aperitivo with thinly sliced speck, a local specialty.

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Old cob-webbed wine bottles

Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

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