Until this summer, I had never visited Domaine Hauvette, the mythical winery in Saint-Rémy de Provence that Dominique Hauvette, in an unlikely turn of events, founded in the 1980s. Before then, she worked as a lawyer in Savoie, but found herself called to the south to “live in color,” as she puts it. What I discovered during my visit was even lovelier than I imagined: a remote oasis of sun-drenched parcels, buzzing vineyards flanked by the Alpilles mountains on the horizon, and limestone-studded soils littered with fossils. To witness Dominique, amid her vibrant vines, inviting us to take in the fleeting perfume of floraison, I had a thought: Did I need to be living in color, too?
     All of Dominique’s wines are named after precious stones. Cornaline, a red-hued jewel, lends its name to this gorgeous blend of old-vine Syrah, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon which she ferments and ages in giant foudres. After five years, the 2019 is in its sweet spot, with autumnal aromas of sous-bois, hazelnut, and black tea, while still evoking sumptuous fruits like sour plum and fig, which make this cuvée distinctly Provençal. Ideas for pairings range from late-summer tomates farcies, to squash ravioli, caponata salad, or marinated flank steaks seared pink to perfection. The wine is so stunning, the meal can be simple.
     Without the least bit of pretension, Dominique once told me she sees herself as a wine medium more than a winemaker, doing all she can to grow high-quality fruit (she works organically and biodynamically) and to intervene as little as possible in the cellar. To drink her wines is to experience a piece of land untouched by machines or modern ennuis, lovingly cultivated with the widely forgotten wisdom of yesteryear.