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2019 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore “Fulavin”
Tenuta AnfossoIn Liguria’s mountainous province of Imperia, a minuscule appellation of incredible terroir surrounds the commune of Dolceacqua. It is in this northwestern corner of Italy that Rossese, Liguria’s prized red grape, reaches its greatest potential. The vines are grown on stone terraces built into steep cliffs—the term Rossese comes from rocciese, meaning “rocky”—and require daunting, everything-by-hand labor. Alessandro Anfosso’s family has tirelessly toiled here since the late 1800s, and the craftsmanship of their wines reflects venerable, generations-old mastery.
The Fulavin is consistently the most velvety and plush in Anfosso’s lineup, and the 2019 is no exception—it seems to perfectly toe the line between easy-drinking and complex. Expect bright berry fruit with floral notes, a touch of smoke and leather, silky spice, and an earthy, mineral finish.
—Madison H. Brown
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2019 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Rossese |
Appellation: | Rossese di Dolceacqua |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Liguria |
Producer: | Tenuta Anfosso |
Winemaker: | Alessandro Anfosso |
Vineyard: | Planted in 1977, 1998, .65 ha |
Soil: | Flysch |
Aging: | Aged for 12-13 months in stainless steel tanks before bottling, then 3-4 months in bottle before release |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
Tenuta Anfosso
In the hills of western Liguria you’ll find Tenuta Anfosso, located in the town of Soldano, and the growing area (or DOC) known as Rossese di Dolceacqua. The grape grown here is the same Rossese as is planted throughout Liguria, but the terroir of Dolceacqua takes the grape to soaring new heights. The wines are reminiscent of Côte-Rôtie, with their combination of floral and roasted/bacon fat aromas and silky mid-palate with stoniness on the finish. There is a level of concentration, structure, spice, and minerality that the more fruit-driven Rossese from further east in Liguria does not possess.
About The Region
Liguria
A long, crescent-shaped sliver of mountainous coastline ranging from the French border in the west to that of Tuscany in the east, Liguria is a region of unrivaled Mediterranean charm. This applies not only to its colorful seaside villages and carefree, welcoming people, but also to the wines it produces—crisp whites and light reds designed to be quaffed with locally caught seafood.
Viticulture has thrived along these coastal hillsides since Etruscan times. Ancient stone terraces line the steep slopes all along the Riviera, many abandoned while others still host olive trees, lemon trees, and of course, the vine. What Liguria lacks in acreage, it makes up for in diversity and originality: home to numerous indigenous grape varieties, it produces wines of infectious local character.
The hallmarks of Ligurian wines are fragrant aromatics and lively freshness. Whites from grapes like Vermentino and Pigato capture the pervasive flavors of wild herbs and citrus with a sea-breeze salinity, while the rare reds from Rossese, among others, have a brightness of flavor that allows them to complement dishes from the sea or land—served with a slight chill, of course.
While Kermit’s history in the region is relatively recent, Liguria has rapidly become one of his favorite places to visit. It’s hard to blame him—enjoying a crisp, perfumed white with a platter of fried sea critters on the Mediterranean is definitely not the worst part of the job.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236