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2018 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso “Morus Nigra”

Vignai da Duline
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Morus Nigra, named for the black mulberry, is the red counterpart to Morus Alba. Produced from a local biotype of the Refosco grape (peduncolo rosso denotes its characteristic red stalks), it is also the union of Duline’s two terroirs. Federica and Lorenzo planted mulberry trees and other native vegetation all around the vineyards to foster an oasis of biodiversity isolated from the outside world, the symbiosis with local fauna and flora keeping their vines healthy and vibrant. The energy is palpable in this red’s vivid perfume of tart wild berries, iron, and plums. Lovely now with a slight chill, their Refosco has a stimulating, stony backbone that ensures a slow evolution through the years.

Anthony Lynch

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Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2018
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Refosco
Appellation: Friuli Colli Orientali
Country: Italy
Region: Friuli
Producer: Vignai da Duline
Winemaker: Federica Magrini, Lorenzo Mochiutti
Vineyard: Planted in 1996 & 2005, 1.71 ha
Soil: Limestone and clay red soil and Marl-sandstone and limestone flysch
Aging: Aged 11 months in 2.5hl oak barrels (max 30% new oak)
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 14%

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About The Region

Friuli

map of Friuli

Friuli may be forever tied to its bland, acidic Pinot Grigios, which at one point saturated the export market, but a deeper look reveals a captivating array of unique grape-growing sites, distinctive indigenous varieties, and passionate small growers keen on preserving a rich tradition of winemaking.

Here in Italy’s northeast corner, the region is shared between the Julian Alps in the north and plains leading to the Adriatic Sea in the south, bound by the Veneto to the west and Slovenia to the east. While it is one of the wettest regions of Italy—and all of Europe, for that matter—Friuli benefits from the push-and-pull of cool air currents from the mountains meeting warmer breezes from the Adriatic. A crescent-shaped slice of foothills, where both play a role, tends to produce the region’s finest wines.

Nothing is more emblematic to Friulian wine than a crisp, peachy Ribolla Gialla served with thinly sliced prosciutto San Daniele, a local specialty. And yet, this only begins to tell the story: high-acid, mineral-driven whites from a number of local varieties including Tocai Friulano, Pinot Grigio, and Malvasia range from light and crisp to powerful and age-worthy, complementing Adriatic shellfish, hearty mountain cheeses, and everything in between. Native reds like Schioppettino, Terrano, and Refosco all have something unique to say, while there has even been significant success with French varieties like Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot, all long established in the region.

Friuli’s diversity is its strength, and it keeps us coming back for more. In fact, Kermit imported one of the region’s first organic growers toward the start of his career; our more recent collaboration with producers like Vignai da Duline is a testament to the enormous potential when devoted artisans put their hearts into Friuli’s fascinating terroir.

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

Read the whole story

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