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2011 Canon-Fronsac
B. & G. Hubau
If a fruit-forward Merlot from Bordeaux is what you’re after, keep searching. This chiseled and mature Canon Fronsac will defy your expectations for a few reasons. For one, at thirteen years old, its brambly berry notes are but a memory of its youth. They have evolved and taken on a woodsier sophistication of shady underbrush, violet, and nutmeg. Furthermore, the soil here is atypical for the region. Grapes grow on calcareous hills, not in clay and gravel, which is most common in the Left Bank; that means this bottling leans to the mineral side, with graphite-like tannins. Lastly, in the case of a “natural” Bordeaux like this, the hand of the grower is as important to our understanding of its sense of place as the soil, grape variety, or any other component we use to contextualize a wine. Grégoire and Bénédicte Hubau are boho bon vivants, and the charm and ease they exude in person show up in the glass. I recommend decanting this bottle to allow its supple, generous personality to shine.
—Jane Augustine
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2011 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Merlot |
Appellation: | Canon-Fronsac |
Country: | France |
Region: | Bordeaux |
Producer: | Château Moulin Pey-Labrie |
Winemaker: | Bénédicte & Grégoire Hubau |
Vineyard: | 65 years avg., 7.63 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone, Molasse |
Aging: | 18-month élevage in barriques, 30-50% new |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
Château Moulin Pey-Labrie
About The Region
Bordeaux
Often considered the wine capital of the world, Bordeaux and its wines have captured the minds, hearts, and wallets of wine drinkers for centuries. For many, the wines provide an inalienable benchmark against which all other wines are measured.
Bordeaux is divided into three winegrowing regions with the city that gives the region its name in the near geographical center. The “right bank,” or the area located east of the Dordogne River, produces wines that are predominantly Merlot with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The “left bank” is located to the west of the Garonne River and produces wines dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.
The third region, Entre-Deux-Mers, lies between both rivers and produces white wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle. Though technically in the left bank, it is worth noting the appellation of Sauternes, which produces arguably the world’s most famous sweet wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle as well.
Though many top Bordeaux wines are sold en primeur (in advance of their bottling) and often through a middleman known as a negoçiant, Kermit has always preferred to purchase directly from the winemaker. For more than three decades he has sought out small producers, who make classic Bordeaux wines and are willing to play outside the negoçiant system. This ethic has led to longstanding relationships, excellent prices, and perhaps most important—wines of great value and longevity.
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Vintage Chart Mentality

Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch