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2008 Vieux Macvin du Jura

Domaine Ganevat

Here is a brilliant example of a fortified wine that will dazzle disciples of the style while also impressing the uninitiated. Perfect as a digestif, just one sip of this remarkably complex Macvin is enough to inspire the emotions normally associated with tasting a great wine. There is a definite brandied quality due to the process of mutage, wherein old marc is added to semi-fermented grape must to halt fermentation. After that, it is all spices, herbs, raisins, and nuts, enveloped by an unexpectedly smooth finish.

Anthony Lynch


Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2008
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Savagnin
Appellation: Côtes du Jura
Country: France
Region: Jura
Producer: Jean-François Ganevat
Winemaker: Jean-François Ganevat
Aging: Aged in barrel for 8 years before bottling
Farming: Biodynamic (practicing)
Alcohol: 17%

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About The Region

Jura

map of Jura

The Jura wine world is a fascinating, mysterious, and at times confusing one. The region’s recent surge in popularity on American wine lists lies in contrast with how strange its wines come across to the uninitiated, with many of its indigenous production methods and quirky winemakers requiring more than an introduction for one to fully savor their virtues. We firmly believe, however, that the pleasure at stake is well worth a slight detour to study the wild world of Jura.

Jura tradition calls for aging whites sous voile, or under a fine “veil” of yeast that grows over wine in barrel that has not been topped-off (non ouillé) to compensate for evaporation. The voile effectively slows the process of oxidation, while chemical reactions between these microorganisms and the wine below give rise to a highly distinctive and complex set of aromas. Often hinting at walnuts, beeswax, oriental spices, cheese rind, and brine, wines aged sous voile can come as a shock to the unhabituated palate. Their textural and aromatic singularity naturally sets them in a category of their own at table, perhaps the best setting in which to gain an appreciation for such wines.

Many Jura producers also produce more conventional whites in an ouillé, or topped-off style, as is practiced in Burgundy–or for that matter, in essentially all the white wines we are accustomed to. This method preserves fresh fruit flavors without the rather rustic, often funky oxidative notes typical of wines aged sous voile.

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Kermit inspecting wine barrels

For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.