The Sun Comes to Shine in Chablis
by Chris Santini
For ages, Chablis rhymed with austerity, the town itself cold and seemingly under a constant gray and damp haze, the vignerons stone-faced and taciturn, its wines tight and chalky in youth, often taking years to start to show their regal allure. It goes without saying that when a great Chablis would finally reveal its elusive charm, all was forgiven, and we’d head back for more, austerity be damned. Yet something happened in the last few years that I am pleasantly reminded of every time I crack open a bottle or stop in town for a bite and a drink. The sun seems to shine now in Chablis, the vignerons all seem to live a bit and smile often (even when the season is tough, as this summer has been), the town is animated and fun, and the wines seem to be following suit. The Lavantureux brothers’ Chablis, for example, positively dazzles—a word I would never have used to describe Chablis in the past—and it does so right off the bat, bright and tasty and loads of fun. No need to cellar and wait, but if you want to put some down, that dazzle’s not going anywhere anytime soon; it will only grow with time. Also check out Savary’s 2023 premier cru Vaillons, so young yet already abounding in that old-school saline, lemon-tinged regal Chablis tone that was once so elusive and long in coming. These bottlings are both compelling and delicious to the point that you really can’t keep your glass down for long. It’s a new dawn, a new day, and Chablis sure is feelin’ good.
2022 Chablis
France | Burgundy
2023 Chablis 1er Cru “Vaillons”
France | Burgundy
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