Skin Contact for a Cold Fall Night
by Tom Wolf
Some of my favorite wine and food memories have come in Montreal, particularly during the latter months of the year in which no thickness of sock will keep your feet warm. Finding refuge inside a cozy, dimly lit bistro on one of those kinds of nights can make you do things you may rarely consider doing on a warmer, brighter evening back home...things like dig into course after course of rich, bone-warming dishes with nary a vegetable in sight or order an array of amber, translucent, and luminous nectars that are made from white grapes but don’t resemble most white wines you’ve tasted. These “skin-contact” or “orange” wines bear a little grip, fine grain, and a kaleidoscope of flavors, offering a perfectly radiant energy for the otherwise dark, frigid nights ahead.
2023 Vin Orange “The New Chapter”
France | Alsace
Everything Arthur Ostertag touches turns to gold—or amber, in this case. This playful blend of Gewurztraminer with a splash of Sylvaner is simultaneously fresh and deep, possessing otherworldly aromas and flavors of rose petal, apricot, and peach. Pair it with a creamy polenta, onion tart, or your favorite card game.
2022 Vin de France Blanc
France | Languedoc-Roussillon
The juice from a field blend of Terret, Viognier, and Roussanne spends several hours in contact with the grapes’ skins, yielding a beguiling range of textures and flavors of apple, pear, and mouthwatering citrus. Pair it with baked cod or roast chicken.
2021 Vino Bianco “Modestu”
Italy | Sardinia
Spending five days on the skins, this old-vine Moscato is an immediate bone-warmer with its full body and notes of caramel, honey, ginger, and orange zest. You can’t go wrong with a savory shellfish pasta or stew, but this also works surprisingly well with chips and guac.
More from the December 2024 Newsletter
