New Arrivals From Etna
by Anthony Lynch
It is refreshing, in a world where valuable real estate inevitably goes to the highest bidder, to see proud locals upholding tradition in the face of massive financial pressures. Carmelo Vecchio and Rosa La Guzza grew up on the northern face of Mount Etna, and they never imagined the rural slopes their ancestors farmed would one day become a commodity highly sought after by wealthy investors from outside of Sicily. But the surge of interest in Etna’s wines has caused land prices to skyrocket, with the cost of a hectare roughly double what it was ten years ago. “These investors have enormous financial resources and will buy at any price,” laments Carmelo. “It’s becoming impossible for us locals to compete to acquire land.”
Luckily, Carmelo and Rosa each inherited small family plots of ancient vines, and they have cobbled together additional bits and pieces to bring their holdings up to a modest three hectares. Drawing on generations of family tradition, plus years of experience at respected local wineries, the couple created Vigneti Vecchio in 2016. Guided by their deep roots on Etna, they bottle small batches of luminous hand-crafted wines that encapsulate the unique smells and flavors of this beautiful, but rapidly changing landscape.
2022 Etna Rosso “Sciare Vive”
Italy | Sicily
A raw energy courses through this bottling made from gnarled old bush vines of mostly Nerello Mascalese. Hints of ripe cherry and tar soar from the glass, and the chewy mouthfeel is marked by an undeniable volcanic grit—a signature of Etna reds. Give it some time in a decanter to stretch its legs, then savor the made-in-heaven match with rich pasta sauces (amatriciana or arrabbiata, for instance), slow-cooked pork shoulder, or rosemary grilled lamb chops.
2022 Etna Rosso “Contrada Friera”
Italy | Sicily
When an aging farmer was no longer able to work his land, Carmelo pounced at the opportunity to add this little vineyard to his small collection of contrade. The deep soil of volcanic sediment miraculously keeps the 120-year-old vines bright-eyed and bushy-tailed through the most extreme periods of drought, resulting in a gracefully balanced red. Its floral notes and silky berry fruit showcase Etna’s gentler, but by no means weaker, side.
2020 Terre Siciliane Carricante “Sciare Vive”
Italy | Sicily
Both the color and aroma of this blend of Carricante with other indigenous white varieties is a radiant gold. It reminds me of the ginestra flowers that illuminate Etna each summer, their vivid yellow blossoms in stark contrast with the black lava rock from which they sprout. Luscious and mouth-coating, this bianco is just like Etna itself: full of contrasts and ever-evolving, a rich patchwork of heady flavors and interesting textures.
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