Italian Values
by Dustin Soiseth
2022 Colli Trevigiani Verdiso
Italy | Veneto
Since 1600, the Gregoletto family has faithfully carried forth the wine tradition deeply rooted in the steep slopes about an hour north of Venice. In the stunning green foothills of the Dolomites, they bottle wines with an inextricable link to the past. At Gregoletto, production methods are family secrets that have been passed down through countless generations to present day, exemplifying the deft skill and humble artisanship that is increasingly rare in this part of the Veneto.
The Verdiso grape is indigenous to this dramatic, undulating landscape, and while permitted in small quantities in the region’s ubiquitous Prosecco, the variety is rarely ever bottled on its own. The Gregolettos are among the last to do so, creating a still white full of zest and intrigue with a knack for stimulating the palate and mind. The Gregoletto methods—traditional farming respectful of the land, manual harvest, and spontaneous fermentation—yield this low-alcohol bianco with suggestions of tart apple, fresh herbs, minerals, and a clean, saline finish accented by a hint of bitter almond. Sipping it is taking a plunge into Veneto history through brisk, pure, joyful refreshment.
2022 Monferrato Rosso
Italy | Piedmont
We all need a go-to red for tricky food pairings and easygoing evenings. This laid-back, Barbera-based rosso, created just for us by the Bodda family, has the soft fruit and gentle tannins to roll with about anything, not only Italian food. From spicy dishes with a bit of heat to funky, fermented fare, if takeout is on the menu and a bottle of Tenuta la Pergola’s Monferrato Rosso is on your wine rack, then you’re all set, because sometimes the best part of a casual evening is not overthinking it.
2023 Valle d’Itria Bianco “Faraone”
Italy | Puglia
A crisp white wine from a hot climate almost seems like a magical impossibility, yet here’s one, and a delicious one at that. Made from Verdeca, which is native to sun-baked Puglia in southern Italy, I Pástini’s Faraone has a briny nose, like a freshly shucked oyster spritzed with lemon. In the glass it’s refreshingly clean with a hint of mandarin, followed by a beguiling finish that draws you irresistibly toward the next sip.
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