Blancs de Loire
by Jane Augustine
2023 Sancerre
France | Loire
Dip your nose in a glass of Reverdy’s Sancerre to activate a mouthwatering response, Pavlovian in its immediacy. Reverdy’s Sancerre is the most iconic of the three Sancerre domaines we bring in, a beacon of excellence like Tempier is to Bandol. From one vintage to the next, Reverdy’s Sancerre reaches soaring heights with its puckery, herbal appeal and persistent palate. If you haven’t tried it, this is a great vintage to see what all the fuss is about.
2023 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
France | Loire
Menetou-Salon is a small but mighty appellation that boasts an impressive soil loaded with fossilized oyster shells. Our group arrived at the vineyards of Joseph de Maistre after a brisk rain, so the air smelled salty and damp, as if we’d detoured from continental Loire to the Atlantic coast. Tasting his 2023 Menetou, a classic representation of the region’s lofty potential, I wondered how some appellations become more popular than others; why some get to be household names and others are relegated to “satellite” status. Joseph’s Menetou is in its own orbit. It’s peachy, finely textured, and pleasantly verdant—one of the most delightful apéritif wines I’ve tasted recently.
2022 Quincy
France | Loire
Winemaker Pierre Ragon is a national treasure, not only because he has made great Quincy for the last half century, but also because he embodies a version of France that’s rapidly slipping from the present day. Luckily the wines he makes, alongside his young mentee, Augustin Ponroy, preserve history and tradition without compromise. Pierre recalls that back in the day, others in the region picked early to follow trends, while he quietly waited a few more weeks, never in a rush or influenced by the decisions of his neighbors. His 2022 bottling has a warm hue and smells of jammy pink citrus and fresh tarragon. It’s hard to believe that such a playful nose leads to wine with depth and gravitas.
More from the October 2024 Newsletter
