If you didn’t know already, the mighty Domaine Les Pallières in the appellation of Gigondas is the playground of two well-known veterans of Southern red wine—Vieux Télégraphe’s Daniel Brunier and our very own Kermit Lynch. The lieu-dit Les Pallières is a high-elevation vineyard set to the backdrop of a protected forest that surrounds its terraced slopes. Inching up to the scenic property by car, down a winding driveway lined with cypress trees, you may anticipate what lies ahead but can’t be sure until you’re further immersed and you notice a majestic site, tucked a ways back: a rugged hillside punctuated by craggy vines and bordered by a dense woodland. Kermit and Daniel partnered on the property in 1998 after what the French would call a coup de foudre, “a stroke of lightning”—or love at first sight.
     Over the years we’ve come to describe the two bottlings, Racines and Terrasse, in relation to one another, noting that the former—made from the oldest vines on the property grown in clay-dominant soil—is the more supple, elegant of the two, while Terrasse, from higher-altitude vines, is the grippy, structured one. But Mother Nature will not be typecast, and the 2022 vintage defies this norm: Racines digs its roots right into your palate; it is vigorous and firm. I wanted to reach for the chewiest saucisson sec I could find for an impromptu apéro (though it wasn’t even noon and I sadly didn’t have any!). Terrasse, on the other hand, is the gentler giant this vintage, polished and (by comparison) easygoing. Both are luminous, coursing with energy, and offer mouthwatering fruit infused with fragrant garrigue.
     I decided to uncork these bottles side-by-side on Christmas alongside prime rib and the puffed-up Yorkshire puddings my husband makes every year, a family tradition of his that delights me. I won’t spoil the fun by revealing which cuvée took center stage, as I’m sure you have your own occasions in the new year that are worthy of a friendly Racines-Terrasse showdown. And depending on what you serve, results will differ!

If one feature defines and unifies northern Italy, it is Europe’s most famous mountain range: the Alps. Not only do these mountains stitch Italy together with France, Switzerland, Austria, and Slovenia, but also they tower over seven of the eight regions that make up northern Italy, looming large in the lives of those who inhabit their valleys and foothills.
      While the clearest places to witness the Alps’ influence are in the high-elevation valleys nestled between mountain peaks of Alto Adige and Valle d’Aosta, the strikingly steep foothills of the Alps, in regions like Piemonte and the Veneto, also receive abundant sunshine, cleansing winds, and essential diurnal shifts that provide ideal conditions for grapes, keeping them healthy and refreshed. These inland regions are home to some of the country’s most exciting white and sparkling wines and exalted reds.
      Italy’s northwestern and northeastern corner, by contrast, enjoy the marriage of the Alps and the Mediterranean. Imagine vines climbing steep coastal hills alongside olive and lemon trees while receiving cool breezes blowing in from the sea and cold air currents moving down from the mountains. These are terroirs—and thrillingly distinctive and delicious wines—like you’ll find nowhere else.

If Burgundy’s best regional and village wines embrace deliciousness and exuberance while the most noteworthy grands crus unfurl their gorgeous layers over decades, the region’s premiers crus offer an irresistible balance of these qualities. All three of the wines below beckon you today with their extroverted charm, but will also evolve into triumphant, unforgettable expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir over the next five, ten, even fifteen years.

It is refreshing, in a world where valuable real estate inevitably goes to the highest bidder, to see proud locals upholding tradition in the face of massive financial pressures. Carmelo Vecchio and Rosa La Guzza grew up on the northern face of Mount Etna, and they never imagined the rural slopes their ancestors farmed would one day become a commodity highly sought after by wealthy investors from outside of Sicily. But the surge of interest in Etna’s wines has caused land prices to skyrocket, with the cost of a hectare roughly double what it was ten years ago. “These investors have enormous financial resources and will buy at any price,” laments Carmelo. “It’s becoming impossible for us locals to compete to acquire land.”
     Luckily, Carmelo and Rosa each inherited small family plots of ancient vines, and they have cobbled together additional bits and pieces to bring their holdings up to a modest three hectares. Drawing on generations of family tradition, plus years of experience at respected local wineries, the couple created Vigneti Vecchio in 2016. Guided by their deep roots on Etna, they bottle small batches of luminous hand-crafted wines that encapsulate the unique smells and flavors of this beautiful, but rapidly changing landscape.

The Californian Kermit Lynch is one of the main importers of French wines to the US. This book recounts his experience and his encounters on the routes of our vineyards that he has traveled for many years in search of the object of his delights. In this euphoric pursuit, we cross paths with wine figures well known to readers of the Revue du Vin de France: Aubert de Villaine, Henri Jayer, Charles Joguet, Gérard Chave, François Raveneau, and many others. We also meet great forgotten characters and more modest players. With each of them, the author created links that he tells in a story filled with tasty anecdotes and profound reflections. “A simple winemaker,” he says, “can make a work of art.” His frankness and his uncompromising judgments may collide with diplomacy and consensus, but the reading of this book is a remedy against depression. It was the favorite book of Jim Harrison, a monument of American literature. “Read this book,” he affirmed, “and you will love yourself more.” I couldn’t give better advice.
     The 25th Anniversary Edition of Adventures on the Wine Route is available for purchase online and in our retail shop for $20. Kermit is also quite thrilled with the audio version. Listen on your favorite audiobook service: Audible, Spotify, Amazon, Apple, and many more.