My dad earned a reputation for looking where no one else was looking: his early imports from Chinon, Bandol, and Saint-Joseph were veritable unicorns in a world dominated by Bordeaux and Burgundy. Of course, this was over forty years ago, and the global wine landscape has evolved quite a bit. Chinon, Bandol, and Saint-Jo are now considered classics, and jaded palates seeking new thrills must turn their attention to new horizons.
     With that in mind, if there is one wine to discover from the far reaches of the middle of nowhere, it is most certainly this pristine blanc from Domaine Les Hauts Lieux, a tiny property perched high in the southern Alps. To call the Hautes-Alpes wine region “obscure” is a total understatement: just eleven small domaines call the area home, for a grand total of 130 hectares under vine. That’s the acreage of Hermitage, but spread out over a rugged stretch of fifty miles instead of one little hillside.
     Mickaël Olivon farms vineyards at up to 1,000 meters elevation in narrow Alpine valleys tucked beneath epic snow-capped peaks, like the Tête de Clotinaille, which towers over his vines. “Grains de Clotinaille” is one of four wines he makes from this unforgiving mountain terroir, each one named for a nearby peak he has scaled. What’s more, the word Clotinaille features an old name for a fermentation vessel—tinaille—suggesting the locals way back when had a taste for wine. We’ve come full circle, if you ask me.
     The blend features Chasan, an unlikely crossing of Palomino with Pinot Noir, with some Chardonnay. The wine’s purity and light floral character reminds me of a dry sake, while its bright, clean focus on the palate recalls a breath of crisp mountain air. A subtle hint of perfectly integrated oak provides a depth of texture that might appeal to Burgundy lovers. But it is distinct from the wines of Burgundy, Savoie, or anywhere else. Each refreshing sip is something completely new, and a delightful reward to one’s curiosity.